TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLESHOOTING

Following the initial procedure, adjustments may need to be made to the color depending on how it heals in the skin:

  • If the eyebrows following the healing period have a blue/grey cast, during the follow-up procedure pigments with a warm orange tone can be used to counterbalance this.
  • If the eyebrows following the healing period have a red/orange cast, during the follow-up procedure pigments with an olive tone can be used to counterbalance this
  • If the eyebrows following the healing period have a purple cast, during the follow-up procedure pigments with a warm yellow tone can be used to counterbalance this NOTE: Yellow heals the lightest in the skin and may require 2-3 corrective procedures. Please refer to your color wheel for color neutralizing.

Congratulations

THAT’S A WRAP!
Becoming, shaping, and establishing yourself as an artist is not an easy task, but it is one that pays ten-fold, mainly by the lives we change! These tips and tricks will help take your brows to the next level!

TIPS & TRICKS

THREE-POINT STRETCH
TIP: Pull tight with a three-point stretch. That is where you use your thumb and pointer finger from the hand, not microblading and pull with your pinkie with the hand microblading.

RESULT: Cleaner, crisper lines. Three points stretch on the client.

MAKE STROKES WITHOUT PIGMENT ON YOUR BLADE
TIP: Make strokes on your first or second pass with no pigment on your blade. Add pigment after your stroke with a Micro brush.

RESULT: You can see the skin open more than if you have pigment in the way. Try it on one stroke and you’ll see what I mean.

MICROBLADE FRONT STROKES LAST
TIP: Microblade front strokes last, start your first pass about four strokes from the front of the outline or the tail. Whatever works for you. I make my surgical dots in the front about two hair strokes away from my outline. Not everyone wants their brows to be as close as the middle of their nostril. 

At the end, the client and I decide if each eyebrow needs an extra stroke in the front. I do one stroke on the right, then one stroke on the left. Then have the client decide if they want another stroke. RESULT: Clients are so much happier and satisfied with their brows! Other artists just give whatever brows they think would look best on the client. But, so far in my experience, clients love and appreciate this extra step because it takes their opinion into consideration, and they feel more in control. 

USE MORE THAN ONE BLADE
TIP: Use more than one blade. I use a Classic 9 by Tina Davies Professional on the first pass then the U Blade to do the second pass. The U blade allows more of a free flow when it comes to going over strokes for the second pass. The Classic 9 for me is great for the first stroke and crisper lines.

RESULT: Better lines after the second or third pass.

MAGNIFICATION AND HEAD LAMP
TIP: Use a magnifying head lamp. If you wear glasses every minute of a waking day like me, you will need a magnifier for sure! This allows me to see all the nooks and crannies of the skin.

RESULT: Prevents you from crossing your hair strokes, you don’t start to high or low from other strokes. Precision is key. Think of where the next stroke goes that will give you the look you want.

PAINTING A PRE-STROKE
TIP: Paint a line of pigment on the skin where you are thinking of putting a hair stroke without opening the skin and then have the client see if they like that stroke. I dip my blade into the pigment, I clean off one side of the blade on a cotton pad, I then make a thin line of where I can potentially put a stroke without opening the skin. Rather than overdoing it in the front of the brow, have the client part of that decision process. It takes only an extra minute. So many of my clients are glad we didn’t go closer in the front because that is where “the middle of the nostril is.”

RESULT: Happy clients and no overdone front strokes TO

BLEED OR NOT TO BLEED?
TIP: You don’t have to make the skin bleed by going over strokes more than 2 or 3 times. Some artists only go over a stroke 2 times, not more. As many times till you get the sweet spot. Some people will bleed, that’s just how it is (photo shows minor bleeding, normal.)

RESULT: Less scarring, pigment doesn’t spread as much when healed.

USE YOUR CLASSIC 9 LIKE A SHADER
TIP: Use your Classic 9 slanted microblade like a shader. Only have a few places that need some shading. Don’t open the shader, use your slanted Classic 9 like a shader. Works every time!

RESULT: Direct shading for tiny areas like the tail. Sometimes the tail is thinner than the shade.

WHERE TO START STROKES?
TIP: You do not have to start microblading from the front. you can start from the tail. I personally jump around, I make a few hair strokes in the front on both brows, then I jump to the arch and make my way down the tail, then the bottom of the tail, then meet the front strokes to the tail strokes.

RESULT: Personal preference. A balanced brow.

SURGICAL DOT PLACEMENT
TIP: Make your surgical dots INSIDE the outline. Then when you microblade, you will microblade the dots out. Start your surgical dots a few strokes from the front of the outline.

RESULT: Your client won’t get stuck with blue dots when they leave with their new brows.

MAPPING
TIP: The most important one. Take your time with mapping. It takes me 20-45 mins just to get the perfect outline! Ask if they want a pointy or round arch? Have the client sit up, make sure the brows are even. Then lay them down, add your surgical dots, then after each first, second, third and final pass of microblading have them sit up to make sure they are even!

RESULT: Even and symmetrical brows.