When choosing your colors, you should bear in mind that initially following an eyebrow enhancement, the brows will look 40% darker than the expected true pigment color following healing (4 weeks post procedure). During the follow up visit the color can be checked and any adjustments can be made to ensure client satisfaction. It really is a ‘2 treatment process’, and your client should be made aware that the color will not be the final color after only one procedure. The most realistic effects of micropigmentation to the eyebrows are achieved using 2 or more colors to create an illusion of light and dark hairs.

You must consider that even though a contraindication check has taken place, a client may not always be aware if they are suffering from a general skin infection or medical condition. As a permanent make-up artist, you should be checking the eyebrow area for any noticeable contraindications as well as looking at the skin type, hair type and condition. It is imperative that all hygiene practices are implemented to minimize the risk of cross infection.

Before you begin, has the client?

  • Completed and understood all the pre-procedure documentation?
  • Followed the pre-procedure advice and understands the importance of following post procedure advice?
  • Agreed to the shape and color planned for the treatment?
  • Agreed to pre- and post-photographs?


1. Defining natural features
2. Creating features
3. Correcting features
4. Improving and balancing features
5. Introducing skin color
6. Improving skin quality
7. Relaxing skin contractures
8. Improving skin mobility


Once both you and your client are totally satisfied with the Pre-drawing (and the brows have been measured using calipers, photographs have been taken and the brows are balanced and harmonious), ask your client to lie down on the bed. Adopt a comfortable posture resting one arm on her chest and the other to the side of her head to make sure that both of you are totally stable and you have great control over your stretching technique.

As you stretch the eyebrow make sure you don’t remove parts of your drawing. If this happens, redraw the lost part in a sitting position and do not improvise. You should only ever pigment over correct Pre drawing. When the client is lying down you will not have the same angle of vision and you may incorrectly modify the original shape without noticing. As a beginner, you should now draw the basic skeleton hair strokes into your pre-drawn shape very precisely so that you don’t lose your shape as you go.

You are now ready to start the pigmentation. With your needle and a tight, firm stretch of the eyebrow, trace the main pre-drawn hair strokes with little back and forth movements. Always start in the middle of the hair stroke and work your way up and down. If you start at the top or the bottom, there is a risk that you will create a pool of pigment and a section that is too thick. This will ensure that your hair strokes are crisp and fine.

Complete the hair strokes one by one starting in the middle of the brow, to allow tighter stretch on this end section of the brow. Once the first pass of the initial color is in, the shape is fixed, and you can focus on the beginning part of the brow without worrying you will lose your shape for the second sections

You will needs to check that the skin has retained the pigment. You can do this by getting a cotton bud that is made damp with Xylocaine spray and wiping it across a thin line perpendicular to the brow. Do not wipe away more than that unless you have carried out several tests to make sure the colors in the skin, as you may lose your shape and would have to do the drawing again.

Once you have completed your skeleton strokes and your color retention tests, you can wipe away your Pre drawing. The structure and shape of your eyebrow design are now fixed. Put more anesthetic on the eyebrow and move onto the other side to repeat the process.

Once you have done this, come back to the first eyebrow. Repeat the basic hair strokes 2-3 times and always wipe away the color between the different passes to ensure that there are no color intensity differences between the strokes. A darker stroke does not need to be repeated if you consider the intensity to be sufficient, and you will need to avoid going too deep and making the hairs too dark.

Add additional hair strokes to areas that are sparse and add smaller ones in between hairs, if need be, to complete the shape. When you have completed both sides, ask the client to sit up and compare both brows. You may find that the colour retention varies, and you should equalize whatever you feel needs to be balanced

Your final step is to define the brow ends as these tend to fade more easily. Put all your hair strokes ‘to sleep’ to create a perfect, natural shape, and make sure all strokes remain crisp.

NB. During pigment implantation the skin should be stretched taut, keeping the handpiece at a 45- or 90- degree angle and flicking the needle off the skin at the tip of the stroke to create a tapered end effect. The needle should be inserted and moved quickly to avoid pooling of pigment which may give a dotted effect to the base of your pigmented hairs. Imagine an aircraft coming to land and immediately taking off again. This is much like the action required to achieve a perfectly even implant. Also remember’ work slowly to go faster’