MICROPIGMENTATION NEEDLES

MICROPIGMENTATION NEEDLES

STUDENT TRAINING MANUAL

Each procedure will require a new sterilized needle which is opened from the packet in front of the client. This will instill confidence and trust in the client. No needle should be used twice. All used needles must be disposed of correctly in a safety box after the treatment procedure.

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR EQUIPMENT?
Choosing your device and needles is a very personal decision as it depends on preference and desired look. When deciding your needles, you must look at the size, taper, count, flexibility, and configuration. Nowadays there are a lot of tools for microblading on the market with varying degrees of quality. The needle used by each artist will vary according to hair stroke pattern and individual preferences. 

The important concept when picking a needle is ensuring that all blade tips are undamaged, and that quality manufacturing and sterilization techniques were used. Also, the are two different kinds of needles on a market today: hard type and flexible. Flexible needles are commonly used in practice as they can create more realistic hair strokes. The ability to curve each stroke is easier(due to fine needles) and this too can be used on more skin types. 

Hard type blades should be reserved for more difficult skin types such as thick or oily textures. These needles are slightly larger and create bolder strokes. 

Except the range of flexible or hard blades, artist also need to select a needle configuration: 

  • Needle size ranging from #7to #22 
  • Needle Tip formation which can be curved, u-shaped, or straight. 

Make sure that all needles are individually packaged, sterile single use. The blades will then need to be placed at an appropriate angle on a microblading pen. These pens are formed from plastic or stainless steel, with some being disposable and others able to be sterilized in autoclave. 

NEEDLE SELECTION FACTORS

  • The age of the skin: The older the client, the more tissue laxity, collagen, and elastin loss you’ll notice. Micro needling this aging skin provides a healthier canvas for microblading, and this means your hair strokes will stay crisp upon healing.
  • Previous procedures and corrections: You can microblade over old colors and even do corrections. You’ll want a bit bigger needle for these cases.
  • Width of hair-stroke desired
  • Pigment you are using
  • Color carrying capacity of the needle: texture and taper of needles, number of needles and curve of needles are important. More needles, more resistance and you press harder.
  • Skin Resistance: Older skin less resistant so use finer needle 
  • The Procedure: Single, curved needles for brow hair-strokes.
  • Practice makes perfect: You’ll develop your very own unique technique overtime. Sometimes you’ll switch needles during your case. As you practice, you’ll find which needles are the easiest to control and which ones put in the most color. You must know your canvas, the skin, very well.

SKIN FACTORS AFFECTING ABSORPTION

  • Medication – including anti-inflammatory medications, steroids
  • General Health
  • Sun Exposure
  • Topical Cosmetic Creams including Retin A, AHA’s,
  • Various Acids found in modern day creams.
  • Laser
  • Sun damaged skin
  • Scarred skin
  • Lifestyle
  • Drugs and Alcohol
  • Age
  • Natural Skin properties
  • Chemotherapy
  • Alopecia
  • Exfoliating Skin conditions (psoriasis or eczema)

OPERATOR ERROR FACTORS

  • Depth of implantation
  • Needle selection
  • Needle speed
  • Pigment type or make
  • Dry Needles
  • Pigments not shaken for long enough

NEEDLES & NEEDLE GROUPING
The different types of needle groupings typically used for micropigmentation procedures:

  • 1 POINT/SINGLE – Applies the thinnest line, frequently used for eyebrows and pointillism in scar camouflage. Some devices only use single needles in the form of an acupuncture needle, and they can be used for all types of PMU treatment.
  • 3-POINT MICRO – A slightly thicker line than using the 1-point needle. Frequently used for application of a fine eyeliner and eyelash enhancement. Some PMU artists use this for pointillism in scar camouflage.
  • 3-POINT OUTLINE – A slightly thicker line than 3-point micro. Used for fine liner, eyelash enhancement and pointillism in scar camouflage.
  • 3 POINT – A slightly thicker result than using the 3-point outline. Used for fine lip liner and colour mist for eyebrows. Can still be used for eyelash enhancement and fine eyeliner.
  • 3 SLOPED – This will stroke in the skin with one pass. This gives a thicker hair stroke than a flat 4. Used on the eyebrows.
  • 4 FLAT – A thicker line than a 1-point needle. Frequently used on the hair stroke for the eyebrow, shading the lips and shading the areola.
  • 4 POINT – Gives a thicker liner than a power 5 and or a 3 point needle. Used to create a thicker eyeliner.
  • 5 MAGNUM – Gives an intense line. Good for a thicker, intense liner.
  • 5 SLOPE – Used on shading lips and areola shading.
  • POWER 5 – The pigment application is denser, and the line is thicker than a point 3 needle. Used for fine liner on the eyelid, lip contouring and lip shading.
  • 7 ROUND – Gives a soft shady look and a thicker line than the 5-point needle. Used for color misting of eyebrows, lip contour, and lip shading.
  • POWER 7 – An intense line. Thicker than a point 5 and thinner than the 7rounds. Used for color misting through the brows, lip contour and lip shading.
  • 9 MAGNUM – Used to shade large surface areas, such as areola and lips.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT PERMANENT MAKEUP NEEDLE
Needles are permanent makeup artists’ paintbrushes. There’s a needle for every technique, from ombre’ brows to microblading. Having the right tools lets you offer the best service to clients, which is the real art of PMU. There are many different types of needles from liners to shaders to microblades to magnums. They vary in a number of points, spacing and “shape”. For example, shaders have a triangle or cluster setup while micro blades are in a straight line.

  • Needle size each needle has a diameter, regardless of the device used. Diameter can be described as the individual needle size.
  • Needle taper each needle has a taper. A taper is the measurement of the needle point length and may be short, medium, long, or extra-long. Short taper produces a larger puncture size with long/extra-long creates a smaller puncture size.
  • Needle count each needle grouping has a count. This is how many individual needles are within one configuration. For example, single needle has one needle while triple shader has three
  • Needle configurations – configurations can be round, flat, and magnum.

THERE ARE ALSO CARTRIDGE-TYPE AND MANUAL DEVICE CONFIGURATIONS.

  • Round liners are a grouping of needles that are soldered together so the points are close together. The result is more concentrated.
  • Round shaders are a grouping of needles that are soldered together so that the points are further apart. The result is more spread out.
  • Flat configurations are needles in a flat, linear pattern that are soldered together so that there is an exact space between needle points. 
  • Woven magnum is one row of needles that is woven in away that gives the appearance of two rows. It has a wider configuration and is available in straight or curved.
  • Stacked magnum is two rows of side-by-side flat needles with the smaller grouping placed on top of the larger. 

Cartridge Type needle configurations are encased and inserted into the handpiece of a machine pen. The needles normally retract back into the encasement when the machine is in the off position. Cartridge needles come in all shapes and sizes such as liners, shaders, and magnum! 

Manual Device needles can be arranged in flat or round configurations. These are configured specifically for eye brow hair stroke patterns and may be smaller in diameter than the typical needle