HEALTH & SAFETY

NEEDLE DEPTH

HOW DEEP SHOULD WE BE IN THE SKIN?
It does depend on the area you’re tattooing. As an example, the eyebrows verse the eyelids are different. Even the eyelids at the tarsal plate are different than the eyelid skin above it. 

As a former skin care professional, I can just about look at the skin and know if it’s thick or thin, however you can also give it a pinch and feel the skin and note the difference. Tattooing in thin skin will be shallower than tattooing in thicker skin. The best advice I can give is to feel your needles in the skin with your stretching fingers. It’s something you start to intuitively do and you know where you are in the skin by feeling the vibration form the needles. It’s more difficult to feel smaller needle groupings and smaller diameter needles such as nano needles. The vibration is minimal, and the nano needles and smaller groups penetrate the skin quickly so it’s important to FEEL where your needles are because you can’t really see them once they are in the skin. 

We tattoo on various practice skins often and pay attention to the feel of the needles, we look at the needle foot prints, and try different techniques. This pad was new to me, and I gave it a lot of hand pressure and purposely overworked it and underworked it. I wondered how it might look and then I decided to cut it open. I think this is a great idea for all artists. Push too hard, push too shallow, try different techniques, draw, color, shade, and scribble with your needles and cut your pad open to see “in the skin.” Although practice skins aren’t the same as real skin, by working on various types it will help you feel your needles and control your pressure. 

HOW SPEED CAN AFFECT YOUR LINES
When we tattoo hair strokes or are doing lining, sometimes our results aren’t as expected, but why? One reason is our speed. 

INCONSISTENT SPEED
Basically, what’s happening is that the hand is moving slow and fast resulting in an inconsistent line with some areas receiving pigment than others. The line will look “skippy”. Usually slowing down hand speed will help achieve a solid line. 

INCONSISTENT DEPTH
Factors such as needle throw, machine stroke, skin type and pressure all come into play. Feeling the needle vibration in the skin with the stretching hand helps control the needle depth. Inconsistent depth and pressure results in lines that may appear thicker and blurred when the needle is too deep, or the opposite is not enough pressure which results in a thinner line that is too surface and won’t last after healing. 

CONSISTENT SPEED AND DEPTH
The harmony of hand and machine speed and proper depth result in consistent line saturation and consistent line weight.

NEEDLE CONFIGURATIONS GUIDE
Have you heard of the saying, “it doesn’t matter what needle you choose, just as long as you know how to use it.”? If you’re a new PMU artist or a seasoned artist who is just venturing out of using a couple of different needle configurations, this is a frustrating statement. How do you know how to use needles when you never were taught needle theory in fundamental training? Today, there is a big need for needle theory. How to use needles makes much more sense when we understand the basics of what we are using and why we are using it. Needles our important as they dictate the footprint left behind in the skin. There is a big world of needle choices, and it continues to grow. Don’t limit yourself and get stuck in one needle choice or just one technique! At the end of the day, we can use a variety of needles for different effects, and we need to understand them, so we know how to use them. We could line, shade, or pixel with all types of needles and the pattern effects will be different. It’s up to the artist to figure out what works best for their artistry and end goal.

MICROBLADING NANO STROKING NANOSHADING NEEDLES

HOW TO CHOOSE GOOD QUALITY MICROBLADING NEEDLES / BLADES
Almost for every new microblading artist and sometimes even for those with experience it is difficult to analyze and understand which kind of microblading needles / blades we need to use for our treatments. I did the research regarding this long time ago and during our training I am trying to explain all the differences between several kinds of needles. However, I decided to share with all of you the most important tips that my company and I mostly use while choosing the needles. I hope this will help you to make your own decisions. 

Microblading treatments and training taking the industry by storm. Each company trying to stay on top, offering the new tools, needles, pigments, and all kinds of new items that helps this industry to grow. 

One of the most important tips, which will help you to choose your micro blades/ microblading needles…The visual test can be very insignificant. As you can see in the picture, the blades, and needles inside look almost similar, but they are completely different. So how do we know which of them are good or bad?

Have you ever experienced that your strokes are not as clear and pigment on the stroke spreads unevenly? If this is happening with your flexible blades it is your pressure. This is very common when you have luck of experience regarding right pressure and angles. All these things may also happen if you are using poor quality blades. When the needles in the blade are not fixed in the correct way it is very easy to make two strokes instead of one (Blade No.1) Always check your needles with the loop before each treatment. If the skin is so thin sometimes you cannot even realize that needles are bent, you will only see the double line when it’s done. When these kinds of strokes heal the lines won’t be crispy. If needles are bent, it is not possible to repeat the line properly. 

What should you do to make sure? How to avoid double lines and get crispy results?

  • Always make sure you keep your needles 90 degrees to the skin and don’t draw sideways.
  • Press gently and very slowly, by releasing your pressure at both ends.
  • Use thinner (nano/0.18) needles forth inner skin and thinner natural hairs and a bit thicker (0.20-0.25) needles for thicker skin and thicker natural hairs.
  • Flexible needles really help to get used to gentle pressure. So, I really recommend working with flexible needles to avoid deep/ashy strokes. Especially on very thin skin.
  • Use good quality stainless steel needles that are well fixed with each other.
  • Always check your needles with the loop
  • You can also check your blade by pressing it on the side with your nail. The needles shouldn’t move much.

The needles in good quality blade will be stable (like the Blade Nr.2) even though blade itself is flexible. It will be easier to draw, and the result will be always the same – clear and crispy strokes!

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT THICKNESS OF THE BLADE

The other important thing is to understand what the best thickness of your blades is and how it affects the results.

The main important thing is that thinner blades are sharper than thicker blades. To under stand why they are sharper, have a look on the left picture where you could see Blade No.1, which has thicker needles, and Blade No.2, which has thinner needles. As thinner the needles are in the blade as closer, they are together. As closer they are as sharper the blade is. 

If you want to avoid missing parts in your strokes or not to get the results with small dots instead of crispy lines, always choose the right needle for different type of skin. We do not recommend using 0.3 needles. 

FILLING AND CHECKING THE STROKES
While trying to get you strokes darker with several passes, try to use the blades with fewer needles. You will be able to implant pigment in each part of the stroke easier and more precisely. The new blades that are very comfortable for filling the strokes are 3 pins. Take picture during the work and use the negative filter. You will clearly see in which parts the pigment is missing.

NEEDLES CONFIGURATION

NEEDLES FOR STROKES
Always choose the one you feel more comfortable with. U needles might be better for curved strokes and back/forth filling method Smaller angled needles are more comfortable for touch-up and short strokes Bigger angled needles are perfect for long strokes, filling, and outlining

NEEDLES FOR SHADING
My personal preference for shading in between strokes is Nano Angled 17pins I often use 17 pins only and do the whole brow combo only with one needle Mini shaders are perfect for outlining, “dots” effect and small areas Bunch type needles will give more opaque powder effect Double shaders are nice for whole brow ombre’ effect

NEEDLES THICKNESS
It is ideal when strokes completely match with natural hairs As thinner the needles are as thinner the strokes will be For thicker skin and thicker natural hairs choose a bit thicker needle to give more density

FLEXIBILITY
There are two different materials that are used to cover needles basis–plastic and stainless steel

  • Flexible needles are covered with plastic 
  • Hard needles are covered with stainless steel 
  • Flexible needles might be more difficult to control for beginners, however, they are perfect to feel the right depth. If you feel that needles are drawing double lines, gets dull fast or keeps bending– make sure to work more on your pressure and consistence. 
  • Hard needles are easier to control, how ever there might be a risk of going deeper. 
  • Hard needles might be better for thicker skin with bigger pores. Do not use those for thin and sensitive skin

I suggest working with hard needles only if you are an advanced user already.

Machine Shading

Powdered

Ombre