COLOR CORRECTION

COLOR CORRECTION

From day 1 of your career as a PMU artist, one of the most important skills you’ll need to acquire is understanding eyebrow color correction. 

You know the drill: a client calls you in a panicked tone. They’ve had their eyebrows tattooed elsewhere and now their eyebrows have faded to blue, grey, or red. They beg the question “can you fix them??”. The answer to this question is the difference between being fully booked and, well… not fully booked. As the PMU industry quickly grows, so does the likelihood of your potential clients needing color-correction experts to tend to their eyebrow correction needs. It’s time to become that eyebrow color correction expert. 

WHY EYEBROWS CAN SHIFT COLOR OVER TIME
As we learned in our basic color theory, brown is a mix of red, blue/black, and yellow. Depending on the quality and the formulation of your pigment brand, the light fastness rating of the colors may not have been equally balanced which can leave behind that undesired dominant residual color i.e., red, grey, blue. 

Clients with a warm skin undertone will pull the warm tone of a pigment more than a person with a cool undertone. If you use a warm pigment on a person with a warm undertone, the color will heal very warm compared to someone with a cool undertone. Make sure you know the undertone of both your pigment and your client. Remember, warm skin undertone will heal warmer and cool skin undertone will heal cooler. 

UNDERSTANDING COMPLEMENTARY COLORS
You can color-correct old tattoos that have turned blue, purple, or red by understanding complementary colors. For example, to correct blue eyebrows, you first must identify the complementary color of blue.

As you can see from the color wheel, orange can offset blue. On the contrary, if you are trying to correct red brows, you need green to offset the red.

HOW TO CORRECT COLOR

COLOR CORRECTOR
Most pigment manufacturers/brands offer corrector that can correct old tattoos that are blue, purple or red/orange.

Orange Corrector: Corrects blue/purple

Olive Corrector: Corrects orange/red

COLOR CORRECTION STEPS
To colour correct previously tattooed brows, you need to ask yourself the following questions.

WHAT COLOR IS THE OLD TATTOO?
Identify if the old tattoo is blue/grey OR red/orange?

WHAT IS THE COMPLEMENTARY COLOR OF THE OLD TATTOO?
If the old tattoo is blue/grey, orange is the complementary color. You’ll need to use the Orange Corrector to offset the old tattoo.

If the old tattoo is red/orange, green is the complementary color. You’ll need to use the Olive Corrector to offset the red.

WHAT IS THE TARGET COLOR?
The target color is the end color you desire.

If the old tattoo is cool and ashy, your target color/pigment should contain a warm undertone.

If the old tattoo is red and warm, your target color/pigment should contain a cool undertone.

BROWS THAT HAVE FADED BY 70% OR MORE

Outline:1st Pass (1 layer to open skin). Target Color: Corrector Color (Orange or Olive)
Outline: 2nd Pass (up to 3 layers). Target Color: Corrector Color (Orange or Olive)
Outline: 3rd Pass (up to 3 layers). Target Color 

Once brow mapping is done, outline the brow shape with the target pigment color choice (the one you would normally use).

Shade 3-4 layers using the desired corrector (orange or Olive). As you shade more passes with the corrector, you will notice the old tattoo color is gradually being neutralized and turning browner. Once the old tattoo has been neutralized to the desired level, finish the rest of the shading with the target pigment choice. Don’t forget to apply duration numbing in between each pass. You may need to repeat this process on the client’s touch-up session if the old tattoo color is still visible. If the old tattoo has been fully neutralized, you DO NOT need to use corrector pigment on the touch-up session.

BROWS THAT HAVE FADED BY 50%-70%
OUTLINE: NO NEED TO BROW MAP OR OUTLINE

1st Pass (1 layer to open skin). Corrector Color (orange or Olive)
2nd Pass (up to 3 layers). Corrector Color (orange or Olive)
3rd Pass (up to 3 layers). Corrector Color (orange or Olive)

If the old tattoo is very dark and saturated, you may need to shade 5-6 layers using only the corrector pigment to offset the old color. If this is the case, the initial appointment should be set for doing color correction only. Do not outline the shape in this case. Only use the desired corrector to neutralize the old tattoo.

Clients may need 2-3 touch-up sessions to completely correct and neutralize the old tattoo. Once the old tattoo has been neutralized to the desired level, you can add the target color. Remember, our job is to cover the old tattoo using a corrector pigment. It DOES NOT remove the old tattoo. You can cover old tattoos if they have faded by 50% or more. Do not try to cover up old tattoos that are very dark and saturated

CORRECTION CASE STUDIES
Case Study #1
Skin Tone: Fitzpatrick Skin Tone 3
Skin Type: Normal/Dry
Initial Session: 6 layers of Fudge (8 drops) + Blackish Brown (2 drops)
Touch-Up session: 5 layers of Fudge

CASE STUDY #2
Skin Tone: Fitzpatrick Skin Tone 3
Skin Type: Normal/Dry
Initial Session: 5 layers of Orange
Touch-Up session: 5 layers of Fudge

CASE STUDY #3
Skin Tone: Fitzpatrick Skin Tone 4
Skin Type: Normal/Dry
Initial Session: 5 layers of Orange
Touch-Up session: 6 layers of Fudge (8 Drops) + Blackish Brown (1 drop)
Note: Extra touch-up is necessary if the client wants a thicker brow shape
Use 4 layers of Fudge (8 drops) + Blackish Brown (1 drop)

CORRECTOR CHEAT SHEET