BROW MAPPING

BROW MAPPING

WHY IS THE PRE-DRAWING (brow mapping) SO IMPORTANT?

If you can’t draw great brows, how can you expect to permanently tattoo them into the skin?! Pre-drawing is key to achieving the best results, and you need you need to master this before progressing onto the main procedure. The Pre-drawing is your template. Without this you won’t be able to achieve perfect pigmentation results. The drawing allows you to determine what the client wants and what suits her. Your client may tell you she wants something but means something else totally different. Drawing is not permanent, so it allows you to adapt the shape until you are both happy. 

Pre-drawing is also a great sales pitch. If a client is just with you for an initial consultation and you can draw perfect make up that she falls in love with, you’ve won yourself a PMU client. Even if she can’t immediately book up to have the treatment done, she won’t forget the way that you made her look and feel with your skillful Pre-drawing. 

The Pre-drawing is essential for insurance purposes. The client agrees to this drawing and as an artist you transform it into Permanent Make Up, documenting the agreed shape by taking pictures both before and after. Some clients will change their mind about the shape after the procedure, but providing you have taken photos of the Pre-drawing, you can always prove that this is what she agreed to. 

The Pre-drawing along with the initial consultation allows you to find out more about your clients wishes and expectations, to build confidence and to map out the rest of your treatment to ensure good results. The most challenging part of the Pre-drawing combined with the consultation will be finding the balance between listening and making professional suggestions in an empathetic yet authoritative manner. This will of course depend on the personality of your client. You should therefore be perceptive to other aspects of your client’s personality before beginning the Pre-drawing: how she dresses, her style, how she acts and her general appearance. This is all very important and will make you more likely to meet her demands rather than spending hours and hours blindly getting the drawing correct. Her individual style and the psychology behind how this make up will make her feel is so important, as in theory it’s permanent 

EYEBROW DESIGN & MEASUREMENT
Designing the eyebrows is a very important step in your procedure, for some PMU artists this comes natural and easy, for others it takes time, so practice and pay attention to detail to create the perfect design (great product is scalpaezbrow.com for easier design guide). Some artists use the measuring tool more than others, but whatever works best for you and comes easier for you will make you more confident, also making the client feel comfortable during the entire design process. There are two methods you may want to use when preparing the brows: In the first method you will want to measure the eyebrow, from point A, B & C and then you will start shaping the perfect brow based on the clients features and desired look. Then you start tweezing the brow to make it fit in the box to make it look cleaner. You may want to use this method if the eyebrows are very thick because you may not be able to see your stroke if the brow is outside of your desired drawn shape. If the brows are thin, you will most likely use the second method. You can tweeze or trim the brows after you are done with the procedure if needed. Start with on side (usually the one the client prefers) Fill in the gaps with additional hair strokes very lightly, anything too dark will scare the client as they won’t be able to see beyond the color. When designing the brows, you should use the calipers to measure the dimensions of the face.

PLACING THE RULER
Now that you have placed the ruler, you need to identify where your client’s eyebrows should start, arch and end 

STEP 1 Finding where the brow starts, Line 1: Use a ruler, pencil, or any straight object. Position the ruler or pencil from the nostril side to the beginning of the eye. Continue up and mark the line that will show the starting points. 

STEP 2 Finding the brow arch, Line 2: Position the ruler or pencil from the nostril side to the middle eyeball. Continue up and mark the line that will show us the arch points. 

STEP 3 Finding where the brow ends (Tail), Line 3: Position the ruler or pencil from the nostril side to the end of the eye. Continue up and mark the line that will show us the end\tail point. 

Once you have found and marked your 3 lines (1-start, 2-arch and 3- tail), you can draw lines connecting the points to see where it is that you need to shape your brows and fill it in using your eye brow pencil. This is only a guideline, many eyebrows will not exactly meet this ratio, so this is where your own design artistry and techniques will apply. You will use your ruler as your base guideline then design your arch and tails then perfect the brows according to client consultation and your knowledge based on clients features. 

Once you are happy with the first brow, you should show it to your client to confirm that you are working in the right direction of the look that she wants to achieve. This also allows her to compare her natural brow with the newly drawn brow. The effect that the brow has on the overall facial expression will be immediately apparent, and we can then work with the client to make any changes necessary to this one brow. This saves time as we can then replicate it on the opposite brow once she is happy with the first on. 

Asking the client to perform certain facial expressions will enable you to determine if there is an obvious imbalance in the natural positioning of the brows. 

Instruct Your Client To:

  • Raise eyebrows up
  • Frown
  • Look down

Note: If the client wears glasses get them to perform these movements again but this time with their glasses on. ALWAYS use a well sharpened pencil when Pre-drawing and don’t go too heavy, making sure you use a color that corresponds with the natural eye brow hair. 

BUILDING & POSITIONING NATURAL EYEBROW THICKNESS

  • The ideal thickness desired should be between 0.5-1cm 
  • The ideal length desired should be between 5-6 cm 
  • The ideal arch point should be between 3-4 cm from the start point 
  • The ideal tail length desired should be between 1.5-2 cm www

MARKING YOUR EYEBROW DESIGN
It is important to know and understand the structure and parts of the eyebrow.

Marked on the board is a top line that shows 6 cm and have divided it into 3 parts. Also marked another is a line on the side of the board which will show us the thickness. Let’s begin by marking our starting point A. Go 6 cm straight across and mark the end of the brow which is point C

DRAWING AND DESIGN
In this method, we will learn to draw an eyebrow with only 5 points. Marked on the board is a top line that shows 6 cm and has divided it into 3 parts. Also marked is a line on the side of the board which will show us the thickness. Let’s begin by marking our starting point A. Go 6 cm straight across and mark the end of the brow which is point C

  • Go straight from A directly to C then stop in our arch line which is after two-thirds (4 cm).
  • Go up 0.5 cm and mark the arch point B
  • Go straight from A directly to C then stop in our arch line which is after two-thirds (4 cm).
  • Go up 0.5 cm and mark the arch point B
  • Let’s go back to point A 2 and we will do the same, mark the other arch point B2.

Remember- arch points B, and B 2 are the highest points of the eyebrow.

Now all you have left to do is connect the lines in that direction: A 1 to B 1 to C, and A 2 to B 2 to C

NOTE: There are a few different methods for drawing, designing, and shaping the brow

SKIN TIPS

STRETCHING THE SKIN
Stretching techniques vary from person to person. It is important to stretch the skin during the procedure to ease the client’s pain and to assist with creating clean proper hair strokes. It is recommended to use 1 size smaller gloves than your hand size so that the gloves fit as tight as possible, you don’t want your hand to move around in the glove as it will make it difficult to stretch the skin properly. Use your thumb, pointer finger and middle finger for stretching. Always stretch the skin in the same direction as the hair strokes, using your two fingers. You want to hold your microblading tool at a 90-degree angle using your thumb and index finger while stretching with your middle finger. Using this angle will make sure as much pigment as possible is being applied and that there is no damage or tearing of the skin. Stretching the skin is very important and you should be sure you are stretching on every stroke. 

CLIENTS SKIN DURING THE PROCEDURE
 The depth of your blade going into the skin should reach 0.5 -1 mm. You must always consider thicker and thinner skin. Make sure when you are microblading, your hand speed is very slow, and the blade is staying consistent in the skin throughout each stroke. You want to begin with pressure and continue as you feather out at the end of each stroke. Each stroke should be a 1, 2, 3 count to be consistent and even. SCALPA U shaped blades create the finest strokes that are curved. You always want to hear the blade. If you don’t hear the sound, that will mean that the pressure on the skin is very light. After you clean the area, you will see that the pigment wasn’t applied properly to the stroke and red scratched line will appear without the pigment. If this happens, you can go back over the line with the right pressure and you will see the pigmentation absorb a lot faster.

HAIR STROKES & DIMENSIONS
After you decide which shape you want the brow to be, start drawing the strokes. It is important to follow some key rules that will make it easier to microblade properly. The first will be the amount of pigment you apply on the blade. You must put as minimal pigment as possible. This will allow you to work clean without messing the area so you can continue to see the shape clearly. The second is applying the pigment on the blade before each stroke you make. ** Do not forget to stretch well. The hair stroke is achieved by implanting heavy strokes at the base and lighter strokes at the upper edge working in the same direction that the natural hair would grow. You still want to see some depression in the skin to achieve the proper implantation. Think of the motion as a dance, “Step one, two” or “implant, hold, Lift” when you hold it should be for about 2 seconds. Your hand comes up, away and lifts. Note: Make sure not to fill in 100% as there is space between the hair that makes it look natural.

TOUCH-UPS

TOUCH-UP APPOINTMENT
Your price should include your second touch up appointment which should be done at least 4 to 6weeks after their initial appointment. It is important to note that this touch-up appointment will be done the same way as their initial appointment. The eyebrows may need additional strokes to fill, or maybe an area did not take well. We must observe for the obvious lightened strokes and go over them, then fill in between. The color may need an adjustment, or the client may wish to have the brows thicker or darker.

Other reasons include things like one tail looks longer, one looks thinner, etc. These are all minor imperfections that are easily fixed on a touch-up visit and are expected. During your client’s initial appointment, it is always best to be cautious, don’t go too thick, don’t put strokes too close together, due to the swelling, we are best to leave the eyebrows and then perfect everything at their second appointment. 

FIXING ERRORS & CAMOUFLAGING
 If your client doesn’t like their eyebrows at all or the color after 8weeks you will need to fix them using color correction, as we learned earlier. You will go over the hair strokes with your pigment, either grey/ash, purple or blue undertones. You need to let the eyebrows heal for another 4weeks, then you can reapply using a different color. You cannot change the shape with this method, this is only for a complete color change. Utilize Salt and Saline for removal of pigment and shape change. If it is an error that you made, you might be willing to help your client and offer to go to their appointment to learn what you may have done wrong or to also pay for their appointment and refund any money for their original microblading procedure. This will protect your business name and integrity. Remember, word travels fast in this industry.